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Posts Tagged ‘aquarium’

MYXAZIN broad spectrum bactericide

Saturday, July 28th, 2007

After consultantion with friends I’ve started to treat the tank with Waterlife’s MYXAZIN broad spectrum bactericide to prevent any secondary bacterial infection. This is a five day course, I’m not sure but I think the area of ulcer is receding.

I’ve like to try Furan-2, but it’s not available in the UK!

I’ve just finished painting another three 30×15x12 fish tanks and they have been test filled in the sun (yes, unbelievably it’s not raining yet!), to check they don’t leak.

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Misidentified Microrasbora erythromicron

Tuesday, March 27th, 2007

In my local pet shop there was a label on a tank which read “New Popular Tetra Microrasbora Galaxy”, and if you’ve not read on the internet or in magazines about the Microrasbora Galaxy in the last six months where have you been. I’m not going to repeat it here, Google for it, but the sad fact is, due to is popularity, it’s been over-fished for the Aquatic trade, and is now possible endangered. In September 2006, it was stated “the next big thing in the aquarium trade”, and I think we are all possible responsible for it’s demise in the wild. Microrasbora sp. Galaxy has been breed in capitivity by Bolton Museum Aquarium ion October 2006, and the advice is, only purchase this fish if you have the facilities to breed it.

In the tank of mislabelled Microrasbora Galaxy were three Microrasbora erythromicron, the shopkeeper told me that two Microrasbora Galaxy (I showed him a picture) had been sold at the weekend by an assistant as Neon Tetras for 65p each!

I’ve got a small tank, so I thought three Microrasbora erythromicron would be a nice addition, I will try and obtain some more, and see if i can breed them.

Both Microrasbora erythromicron and Microrasbora sp. Galaxy originate from Myanmar (New name for Burma). Microrasbora sp. Galaxy has now been classified as Celestichthys margaritatus, also know as The Celestial Pearl Danio. I hope to get some more Microrasbora erythromicron. These are very small fish, and I might need a better macro lens to take a picture of them. I’ll upload pictures when I’ve got them, they look a bit washed out at present.

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The Fintro by Maidenhead Aquatics

Friday, March 23rd, 2007

The Fintro - Fish Acclimatisation Unit or Fish Introduction Unit call it what you like, I’ve been trying to make one of these for years, using plastic yoghurt cartons, plastic fruit boxes, the best method I found was to use Ferrero Rocher plastic boxes, with holes drilled in the bottom, the only problem, I could never get the water fill/flow rate correct, or the stability of the plastic box in the water.

Now these problems, have been solved with the The Fintro by Maidenhead Aquatics. I know this device has just been reviewed in the March 2007 Issue of PracticalFishkeeping Magazine, but I was keen to purchase a two units, and test it for myself. I purchase many fish for the fish house (too many sometimes!), and the older method of just floating the tropical fish in the bag from the tropical fish shop fvor 30 minutes has long been proved in-correct. I usually introduce fish into my quarantine tanks, by floating the bag to equalize temperatures, but I also remove water from the bag, and throw away, and slowly over a period of 30-45 minutes, replace the water in the bag with tank water. This lessens the stress on the fish, by gradually introducing the fish to your aquariums water chemistry, rather than causing toxic shock due to vast pH changes.

  • Float the Fintro in your aquarium.

  • Transfer the fish from bag to Fintro, making sure the fish are in the bottom chamber, and there is at least 1cm of water in the upper chamber. (make sure this is over the tank, because although there is a one-way valve,if you fill the Fintro, not over a tank, water will go on the floor!)
  • The Fintro has a valve which permits a very slow trickle of water to gradually fill it, giving time for your new fish to adjust to the aquarium water conditions.
  • After approximately 45 minutes the Fintro will be completely full and sink to the bottom of the tank, releasing the fish.

The Fintro by Maidenhead Aquatics

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The Python Syphon

Sunday, March 18th, 2007

Let me introduce you to the The Python Syphon. It’s a clever device that connects to your household or outside tap, a 25 foot length of clear UV stabilized, non-porous tubing connects to a fast disconnection snap device, which connects to a conventional 10 inch gravel tubes. Extended length gravel tubes are available for deeper tanks. (I’ve also got a 30 inches one as well!), but the largest is a massive 72 inches, handy for those acryllic hexagonal tanks. There is also an on/off tap which allows you to stop syhphoning or filling up with water.

Python Syphon
This is the brains of the Python Syphon. This is connected to the tap, the tap is turned-on fully, and the Faucet Pump as it is called, has a oulet on the end which is pulled down into the “Drain” position, this has the effect of water passing through the device causing a venturi action.

Venturi Action - The vacuum created by manipulating the speed of a stream of water. The incoming water stream is restricted by a nozzle, while the speed of the outgoing water is decreased by the inverted funnel shape at the bottom of the venturi. The result is a vacuum in the middle, where the waste-water from the tank is sucked into the water stream.

This venturi action is a well known principle used in filters, to bleed air into tanks e.g. Eheim Diffusors use the same principle to suck air into tanks to aertate the returned water.

To fill a tank, the outlet nozzle is pushed up into the Fill postion, water is then diverted up the syphon tube into the tank.

The only issues, I’ve had is in my fish house, I have a internal water supply, but the drain I use for syphoning water away, uses conventional 40mm waste pipe, near each tank for ease. I didn’t want to connect to an external tape outside the fish house, because when working in the fish house, I don’t want to be opening and closing the door, and going in and out, to turn on and off the tape etc

I have finally “designed” and “implemented” “an adaptor” to allow me to use my Python Syphon with ease in the fish house.

If you are still filling and emptying tanks with buckets and a conventional syphon tubes, STOP and purchase The Python Syphon today. One of the Best Inventions Ever for the Aquatic Market.

The correct name is “Clean and Fill No Spill Aquarium Maintenance System” The original and patented

If you’ve got a few minutes, click the above links to view and read the Patents on the No Spill system and if you dig deep enough into the Patent Archives, you’ll quickly see, that Python, didn’t originally design this! A Patent was filed at the US Patents office in 1931 for a similiar device called the Filling and Draining device. Later syphons, were associated with aquariums in the 1950s.

Interesting stuff …

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Rainmate aka Flatpack Water Butt

Monday, July 17th, 2006

I purchased a flatpack water butt today called a Rainmate(R) to help me store 200 litres of water ready for the fish house move. The first flatpack water, self-assembly water butt, delivered to my door!

The water was filtered via my HMA filter and heated to the correct temperature used by the aquariums in the fish house.

Rainmate No.1
Before Assembley Flatpack in box.

Rainmate No.2
After 2 hours, I could probably have done with some help, two people would have made it easier to assemble!

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Corydoras Aeneus "Peru Gold Stripe"

Thursday, June 8th, 2006

I’ve been trying to photograph these active corydoras catfish since I purchased them last Saturday 3 June 2006, while my partner was doing the shopping at Sainsburys; I escaped and this is what I found! Last weekend, I was suffering from Fish Action withdrawl symptoms, as I didn’t attend Ashby or Caer Urfa Open Show and Fish Auction, so went on a local fish expedition instead.

It’s taken over 250 shots, to catch these active corydoras catfish. I’m glad I’m digital! (must clean the glass on the aquarium).

The common “pink” and “albino” variations of Corydoras Aeneus are very common, I have a trio (two males and a female), and If I could catch them from my 6ftx2ftx2ft tank, I would try and breed them. That’s another story of how they got in there? I’ve seen in books, many different variations of Corydoras Aeneus, but never seen any to purchase. These were described as “Gold Line Corys” in the local tropical fish shop. I’m hoping to get some more, and that reminds me, must return to the shop and pay for them as their debit card machine was down!

Corydoras Gold Line 1
Two Corydoras Aeneus “Peru Gold Stripe” catfish

Corydoras Gold Line 2
Larger of the two Corydoras Aeneus“Peru Gold Stripe” catfish

Corydoras Gold Line 3
Smaller of the two Corydoras Aeneus “Peru Gold Stripe” catfish

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Andy’s Water Treatment Works

Friday, May 26th, 2006

All the waters used in the fish house aquariums are passed through an “Heavy Metal-Axe” (HMA) filter, stored in 100 litres containers, heated to 28 degrees C, aerated beforeadding to any aquarium as part of the partial water change or top up procedure. The main difference between an HMA and RO filter is that the HMA filter will not alter the pH or Total Dissolved Hardness of the input water. It will how ever remove Chlorine, Chloramines, Lead, Copper etc.

I use a three stage HMA filter

  • the first stage uses a 5 micron poly-spun polypropylene sediment filter for the removal of dirt and dust - this is used to protect the second stage filter.

  • the second stage uses a coconut carbon (CCB) filter, this is made from coconut shell, not coal. It is rated at 3,500 UK gallons or 6 months use. This removes chlorine and organics, ensuring that the water is chemical free.
  • the second stage used a CBR2-10 filter. The CBR2-10 filter performs many functions, CBR2-10 filter cartridges are manufactured using a patented process and combine powdered activated carbon with a specially designed media for lead reduction. In addition to lead reduction, the unique formation of the carbon block enables it to reduce Cryptosporidium and Giardia cysts and fine sediment particles down to 0.5 microns. The CBR2-10 also reduces levels of chlorine, and certain VOC’s than granular activated carbon cartridges.

Today, I received my replacement filter cartridges from RO-MAN They suggested changing the CBR2-10 filter cartridge for a Chlorplus-10, which is more effective at removing Chroline and Chloromines from the water than the CBR2-10 filter cartridge previously used. (It’s the green filter on the far right in the picture)

HMA Filter 1
Sediment, Carbon, CBR2-10 used filter cartridges.

Chlorine and Chloramines are used for treating drinking water. Unfortunately, Chloramines are more harmful to freshwater and saltwater fish than Chlorine. And unlike Chlorine, Chloramines will NOT evaporate if you let the water stand.

HMA Filler 2
The new Chlorplus-10 filter cartridge, is the blue filter on the far right in the picture, third stage).

The HMA filter saves me having to treat the water with third party chemicals, which are costly. I also have an Reverse Osmosis filter, but this rarely gets used, because of the high levels of waste water produced. (I’m on a water meter!).

I never like changing the 10″ filter cartridges in this HMA filter, because it takes me a while afterwards to stop the leaks, I have to keep tighting up the 10″ filter cases with the spanner, I think I need new O ring seals!

A friend once said, I needed a new grommit fitting, becuse it was a bit slack!

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Pair of Sturisoma Aureum RIP

Wednesday, April 5th, 2006

The electronic thermotstat failed sometime after 7.00am today and I found the aquarium temperature at 35 degrees C, the breeding pair of Sturisoma Aureum were dead, and 50 percent of the young catfish. I’ve managed to save a few young catfish and moved them to the grow on tank.

I’m devasted at the needless loss of life.

I’m hoping that in the future, I may have a pair from the young catfish, I’ve successfully reared.

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Whoops..and thats…

Friday, January 20th, 2006

..another water experiment that’s gone Pete Tong!

I’ve been trying to sex the hundreds of Bristlenose catfish Ancistrus sp. I have in the fish house, some have now matured, but I seem to have females, and no males, Males can usually be indentified as they have bristles on their noses and cheeks, but some species of Ancistrus both males and females can have bristle on their noses. I would have expected to see bristles by now.

While I was doing this, I overfilled a water butt in the fish house! I need to find a mop….quickly….

Sorry, no posts this week, I’ve been pulling the late shift again in the office, so apart from feeding the fish in the fish house, I’ve not been doing anything interesting to report on.

The large mature Angelfish with “pop-eye” is getting worse, I’ve been looking at photographs I’ve been taking every few days, and the condition is worse that at the begininning of the week.

I will remove this fish from the display tank tomorrow, and re-house in a small quarantine tank, it is possible that the Polyfilter has removed the MelaFix from the aquarium, as it removes organics. It’s much easier to treat a fish in a smaller aquarium and requires less MelaFix.

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Friday, January 13th, 2006

I have noticed that one of my very old large Marble Angel fish may have developed Pop-Eye. Not to be confused with the Sailor!

Pop Eye

I do not breed from this angel fish any more, this female is too old, and lives in my display tank in the house.

Pop-eye is caused by: bacterial infection, parasite infestation, metabolic disorders, and poor water quality.

Symptoms: one or both eyes swell and project from the head. In severe cases, the eye can burst from the socket.

Treatment/Control: affected fish can be treated with MelaFix.

Large Old Angel fish

The water quality in the aquarium checks out okay, I’ll maintain a close “eye” on her condition. Excuse the pun!

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