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Posts Tagged ‘kWh’

Real-time energy widget

Monday, April 6th, 2009

okay, i’ve added the real-time energy widget to the sidebar from myenergyusage.org

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Fish House Thermometer back!

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

It’s been a few months since, this was last on:-

Last Update 19:22 (GMT) on 23 Dec 2006, as the weather is getting colder, and I’m experiment with electricity, kWh, heating and my new Smart Power Meter, soon to be delivered, it was about time, I blew the dust off the Fish House Thermometer PC, and put back in the fish house, now where have I got space for a PC, I’ve filled all the spaces with fish tanks!

This is currently on test in my Office!



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Fine Art Installation

Thursday, May 10th, 2007

What do you think? Does it pass for a Fine Art Installation? I was going to call it “Fishtanks”.

More Tanks1
“Fishtanks 1″

More Tanks2
“Fishtanks 2″

As I’ve been at home today, babysitting the fish-house due to the power outage, well looking after the petrol generator. I had some spare time on my hands to wash and clean the fish tanks I collected some weeks ago, these six 30×15x12 are due to go into the fish house, when the shelving arrives.

The fish-house was on generated electricity from 8.00am - 3.00pm today, and consumed 5 kWh (units) of electricity.

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Power Outage

Tuesday, November 7th, 2006

The electricity was cut-off to the village this morning at 8.45am, I started the petrol generator with ease, and then it took me a few minutes in the dark in the fish house (it’s got darker since I’ve insulated and blocked the windows!) to unplug the main four circuits and connect them one by one to the generator feed. At first the current draw from the generator was 12.5Amps, as all the heaters came on, but this gradually fell to a steady 7 - 8Amps. The petrol generator had a full 16l tank of petrol, and I had a 20l petrol can full on standby.

The electricity supply was restored at approx 2.30pm, but I left the Fish House on generator, for 30 minutes before migrating back to mains supply.

An excellent test, I only had to turn-off one 500 watt heater used to heat top-up water, and deemed this wasn’t necessary.

I used approx 10l of petrol, in approx 6hours to generate 9kWh (as measured by my Power Meters! Search the blog for details), so that’s approx 1 UK-GBP per kWh, so an expensive way of generating electricity, so I’m not going to make a saving by switching!

Petrol Gen1
Petrol Generator in use

Petrol Gen2
The small green box, far right under the bag of salt, is the earth box for the generator.

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Electricity Update

Saturday, January 7th, 2006

I’ve been analysing all the electricity used in the fish house, with the use of my Power Meters, and I can reveal I use an Average of 70kWh a day!

Hence I’ve recently switched suppliers in November 2005, and gain to make a saving of over 800 pound per annum.

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Fish House Electricity Cost!!!

Wednesday, December 7th, 2005

At the end of October, I posted an entry Do you suffer from high electricity bills?. I’ve been looking for a power meter to measure kWh for many months to establish Fish House Electricity costs, and I eventually managed to purchase one from JLB Electronics.

The results are now in for half of my fish house, the fish house is split between into two ring mains, so this is ring main one. (It also allows me to draw up to a maximum of 20A per ring main!). Ring main one supplies electricity for 9 aquariums.

Ring Main One Summary

  • 120W of fluorescent lighting.
  • 2.7kWh of aquarium heating.

Items connected to Ring Main One:-

  • 3 x 40W Aquaglow fluorescent lights.
  • 1 x 50W heater.
  • 3 x 150W heaters.
  • 2 x 300W heaters.
  • 2 x 500W heaters.
  • 1 x Hydor 300W external heater.
  • 1 x Hydor internal combined Filter/300W heater.
  • 1 x Eheim 2260 External Canister filter.
  • 1 x Hagen Biolife 55 Internal Filter.
  • 1 x Project PH600 Powerhead.
  • 1 x Hagen 201 Powerhead.
  • 1 x Personal Computer with 150W power supply.

The maximum wattage drawn by the electrical applications was 2.1kW on Friday 25 November at 4.03am.

In the last 32 days, the electricity consumed by ring main one is 605 kWh. A cost recorded by the power meter of 49 pounds. I’m charged 8.1p per kWh by nPower.

I’ll measure ring main two, and post the results on the blog, in a few weeks.

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Do you suffer from high electricity bills?

Tuesday, November 1st, 2005



If the answer is yes, then please read on, I’ve found an electronic wattage
and current meter which I’ve been using in my fish house for about a week, to
analyse running costs and efficiency of heaters, filters, air pumps and
compressors in order to reduce my electricity bill or possibly complete the
calculations and switch to Economy 7. I’m so impressed with this device, I want
to share my experiences with you, so you too can reduce your electricity bills.

The Wattage and current meter in use:-

 


1. Plugged into a standard UK Socket. The unit has seven modes of
operation that can be selected using the Function Button.. When first connecting
the units to AC it shows the date, day and time. This can be set using the Set
and Change buttons.

 

 


2. An electrical appliance is
connected to the socket, Voltage Display

Maximum current is 13A, 220-250v AC that can be drawn by an electrical
appliance, so this should be ample for most electrical appliances fitted with a
standard 13A plug. Mode 1 shows the present voltage (V) and frequency (Hz) being
supplied to the appliance. I’ve connected an Eheim 1260 External pond pump to
the meter for these tests. . The display shows 241v and 50Hz in the photograph.

 


3. Amps display

The present current strength (A) and the power factor received by the
appliance are displayed. The display shows 0.45A and 0.80 power factor in the
photograph.

 

 


4. Wattage display

In this mode, the power is displayed in Watts. The photograph shows 87.12 W,
this is an interesting measurement, because the manufacturer states this has a
power rating of 65 watts. I have found this mode very helpful, in checking
appliances for efficiency. You cannot always believe, what is typed on the
sticker, and certainly with air compressors and blowers, wattage increases under
heavy load and clogged air stones.

 


The wattage display has another display which is very useful, especially for
measuring Maximum wattage drawn by an appliance(s). When pressing the 2-Price
button in wattage display, it shows the maximum wattage recorded and pressing
the 2-button display again displays the date and time at which it was recorded.
The photograph shows a maximum recorded wattage of 1222W (1.2kW). This was
previously recorded when the unit was connected to a multi-channel thermostat
controlling the temperatures in six aquariums in the fish house.

 


This display shows the date and time the maximum wattage was recorded. The
photograph shows 15:56 Sunday, this coincides with me opening and closing the
fish house doors, when completing partial water changes. I’ve also now been able
to graph, temperature drops in the fish house, with external temperature outside
temperature, and add extra insulation, I’ll also be using a fan heater in the
colder evenings with a electronic plug-in thermostat, to come on to keep the
ambient fish house temperature at approx 25 degreesC.

 

 

 

 


5. Operation Duration

The total time displayed during which the connected appliance has been
switched on. If the electrical appliance draws no current, no time is recorded.
The photograph shows the multi-channel thermostat has been connected for a total
of 62 hours and 11 minutes.

 


6. kWh display

A very important mode, in this mode, the cumulative total electricity
consumption by the connected appliances in kWh is displayed. This is important
because it is this unit, that we are charged for by our electricity suppliers,
and is often referred to as the Unit charge. I currently pay 8.1p per kWh to
Npower. If the 2-Price button is selected, you can toggle between Peak and
Off-Peak settings, if you have Economy 7.In this photograph 20.38kWh have been
consumed. Most watt meters end here, but there’s more…

 


7. Electricity price per kWh

This is mode 7, but I’ve jumped to this mode for a reason. This unit, allows
you to program the cost of Electricity price per kWh, at day and night rates if
you have Economy 7. I’ve set the meter at 8.1p per kWh in the photograph. Other
current and watt meters do not allow you to set a cost, and you need to complete
the maths, not difficult, but if you have a device that can automatically
calculate the cost, and display it, you can easily see at a glance, how much an
item is costing you, and how hard it’s hitting your pocket.


8. Cost

This is what we all want to know and calculate, we can gather the the
manufacturers wattage for an appliance, calculate the kWh and complete the maths
to finally calculate the cost, BUT manufacturers specifications are incorrect,
it is very difficult to account for thermostatically controlled appliances,
aquarium thermostats and heaters, that are not connected 24 hours a day, fridge
freezers etc

 

 

Actual measurement of the appliance under test is the only true method, of
costing an appliance.

In this photograph it shows a value of 1.65 GBP, this is how much it costs me
to heat six fish tanks in my fish house for a period of 63 hours and 11 minutes,
maximum wattage recorded was 1.2kW at 15:56 Sunday 30th October 2005, when I
opened and closed the fish house door! I hope this information has been useful.

Some technical details on the current and wattage meter are as follows:-

  • Modern electronic monitoring system permits readout of electricity
    consumption and running costs of connected appliances.
  • Clear display, including actual time and day of the week.
  • Voltage and frequency display in AC volts (V) and Hertz (Hz).
  • Display of present current consumption and true power in amps (A) and cos
    phi.
  • Power consumption display in Watts (W).
  • Display of metered period in hours and minutes.
  • Display of total current consumption during metered period in kWh.
  • Display of total costs of metered current consumed.
  • Display of local electricity tariff per kWh. (user programmable).
  • Maximum power recorded against date and time.
  • Helps to save costs and electricity.
  • Maximum current 13 Amps.
  • Made in Germany.
  • Battery backup, so you don’t have to re-input date and time, price per
    kWh.
  • Available mail order from
    JLB
    Electronics
    via the Internet.

This wattage and current meter is unique, do not be fooled by cheaper units
made in China, this is the only unit that can be programmed with your
Electricity Unit charge (price per kWh, available from you electricity bill),
that will give you a real cost displayed in pounds and pence, it’s also the only
unit that records maximum power drawn, which is time stamped. I believe this is
available exclusively from 
JLB
Electronics
, but don’t quote me on that. I’ve already purchased two units.

I’m not easily impressed with electronic gadgets but this wattage and current
meter rocks big time, and "it does what it says on the tin", don’t take my word
for it, purchase one and test it for yourself. An excellent Christmas Present.

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